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What are Milia? The Cause and Treatment

THOSE TINY YELLOW OR WHITE DOME-SHAPED BUMPS THAT RESEMBLE WHITEHEADS MAY ACTUALLY BE MILIA. COMMONLY CALLED “MILK SPOTS”, MILIA CAN APPEAR ON THE FACE AND ARE USUALLY FORMED IN CLUSTERS. THESE HARMLESS KERATIN-FILLED CYSTS ARE COMMONLY FOUND IN NEWBORNS, BUT CAN AFFECT PEOPLE OF ANY AGE AND ETHNICITY.

Out of the blue, a stubborn, little white bump randomly appears and when you go to attempt an at-home extraction, nothing happens. What may easily be mistaken as a pesky whitehead, or even a wart, may be milia. Although it may be tempting to try to squeeze these bumps, we highly recommend professional care for extraction. SKN BAR expert Taylor is here to explain what milia is, how they are formed and how to safely treat these bumps once and for all.

WHAT IS MILIA?

Milia occur when keratin becomes trapped beneath the surface of the skin. Keratin is a strong protein that is typically found in skin tissue, hair, and nail cells. Your body sheds dead skin cells to make way for new ones through natural cell turnover.  Milia happen when these skin cells don’t shed away naturally. Instead, they are caught under the new skin that develops. They then harden and form a milium. Although milia are common in newborns, they can affect people of all ages.

Milia on the face are usually formed spontaneously, but there are several factors that contribute to their formation. They can be commonly found around the eye area because this area is much thinner than the rest of the face. Heavy creams used in this area that are not properly absorbed by the skin can contribute to the formation of milia. They can also appear elsewhere though. Milia tend to occur because of skin damage – predominantly sun damage – as well as rashes and excessive use of harsh products on the skin.

how to treat milia

Usually, the best treatment for milia is to simply do nothing. For adults, sun damage can be a contributing factor to milia because it can make skin feel leather-like. This makes it more difficult for dead cells to rise to the skin’s surface and shed as they normally would. It is important that you refrain from trying to remove the bumps by squeezing or scraping them as you would a pimple because milia are naturally hard, because of the keratin stored inside beneath the skin’s surface. You will likely only irritate and damage the skin around the cyst. You could wind up scarring the skin permanently. We would advise to see your aesthetician or dermatologist to have them professionally removed.

There are many tried and tested treatments available for the removal of milia, however one of the most common and effective is to use a sterile needle or a lancet to create an incision in the skin, making way for careful extraction under the supervision of a medical professional. This is the best option to avoid possible infection and scarring, so we do not recommend attempting to do it home. 

The best type of treatment will also depend on the type of milia you have, as well as the number and location on the face, but here are a couple of treatment options that are available if you are experiencing milia.

1. gentle exfoliation

There are endless benefits to exfoliating your skin, including: minimizing hyperpigmentation and reducing superficial acne scarring. As milia are a result of trapped skin cells, exfoliation is effective at keeping them from appearing too.

Consistent gentle exfoliation as part of your skincare routine allows the dead skin cells to be removed and reveal new skin underneath, resulting in much less buildup. It also allows for better product absorption which means you’ll get a lot more out of your skincare products and leave you with a healthier-looking complexion.

Routinely using your favorite exfoliants as your part of skincare program is key. Consistency will go a long away with removing dead skin cells and jumpstarting the cell turnover cycle to avoid creating milia.

2. embrace chemicals

Another alternative for the removal of milia is the use of superficial peels containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) as well. These are chemical solutions that in the correct dosage aid in the removal of milia because of the exfoliative properties that they possess.

AHAs and BHAs, including glycolic and salicylic acid, provide accelerated, chemical exfoliation without the need to aggressively scrub your skin which can irritate individuals, especially those with sensitive skin. Chemical peels are non-abrasive, meaning they only lift off the top layer of skin, ensuring that the skin is soft and glowing. Fewer dead skin cells ensure fewer unsightly bumps and the appearance of milia.

If you are unable to make it to a professional clinic, you can try some options from the comfort of your own home. At-home face peels are gaining traction among those on a quest for clearer, more refined skin, and with high concentrations of exfoliating ingredients like lactic and glycolic acid, the de-congesting, complexion perfecting results are pretty much undeniable. The best part? There’s zero downtime. Our recommendation is to start off with smaller dosages regardless of what type of chemical peel. Dosages that are too strong can result in irritating skin, lightening skin or even overtly drying skin out. Whenever using chemical peels, please ensure to wear your protection against the sun’s ultraviolet rays using your favorite SPF to protect the newly revealed skin.

We recommend the following chemical peels if you are interested in following this treatment option.

3. DITCH HEAVY CREAMS FOR LIGHTWEIGHT TEXTURES

If milia tend to cluster around your eye area, it could have something to do with the texture of your skincare products. Applying thicker facial creams to thin and delicate areas of skin has the potential to both block the pores and to trap dead skin cells underneath. This can beckon an army of pesky under-the-skin bumps. While eye creams are important to use because of the special care this area requires, make sure that you use the right type of product to treat concerns.

The solution? A lightweight eye cream formula that’s quickly absorbed without blocking pores. If your favorite product is on the heavier side in terms of texture, begin using less product. A little goes a long way with eye creams, so use in moderation and not only will the eye cream last longer, but it will also help in preventing the creation of milia.

Looking for a lightweight eye cream? Try our favorite skinbetter Instant Effect Eye Gel!

4. INCORPORATE RETINOL TO YOUR NIGHTLY ROUTINE

Retinols, which are vitamin A derivatives, are brilliant at kick-starting cell turnover, as we mentioned earlier, less layers of dead skin on the dermis results in fewer obstructions, and with it fewer white bumps and a more even, almost flawless-looking skin texture. The goal is to use these products as part of your regular routine at an adequate dosage.

Although retinol has bit of a bad reputation in skincare for turning complexions flaky and red for those with sensitive skin, there are gentle yet effective formulas out there.

We recommend these retinol products to reduce the appearance of milia.

Millia are naturally occurring and they are not symptoms of any underlying condition, but they might still be troublesome to some individuals, especially because of the difference in skin texture that they produce. Keeping a close check on your skin’s health is important to reduce the appearance of milia and other signs of aging. Drinking plenty of water and keeping track of how your skin reacts to different skincare products that you introduce to your routine is also critical to avoid causing any harm to the skin. If you are interested in treating milia, we have treatment services available at both of our locations in the greater Milwaukee area. Remember that our medical spa staff offers free consultations as part of our regular service offerings as well. With a free consultation, a professional can help you achieve your skincare goals by creating a plan specifically curated to your skin type and concerns.